The Chamba Valley is a splendidly isolated valley system, cut off from the Kangra Valley by the Dhauladhar Range and from Kashmir by the Pir Panjal. This area was ruled for centuries as the princely state of Chamba, the most ancient state in North India. Even though good roads connect Chamba with Pathankot and Kangra, surprisingly few travelers make it out here, with even fewer continuing up the valley beyond the old hill station of Dalhousie.
DALHOUSIE
Dalhousie in December
With its plunging pine-clad valleys and distant mountain views, Dalhousie is another of those cool hill retreats left behind by the British. Since independence, the old colonial mansions have been joined by an army cantonment, the posh Dalhousie Public School and numerous modern hotels catering to honeymooners from the plains. There’s not a lot to do here other than stroll around appreciating the crisp air and mountain views.
Quite a few Tibetan refugees have made a home in Dalhousie and there are painted rock carvings of Buddhist deities along the south side of the ridge. You can also visit the British era Churches of St John (1863) and St Francis (1894), set among the pines at opposite ends of the ridge.
KALATOP WILDLIFE SANCTUARY
Midway between Dalhousie and Chamba, the forested hills around Khajjiar are preserved as the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary. The flat 3 km unpaved road and shortcut walking paths to Kalatop provide excellent forest walks and you have a chance of spotting langur monkeys and musk deer.
On the other side of the road from the park entrance a looping paved road leads 5km uphill to Dainkund (2745m) to reveal the region’s best views of the expansive Pir Panjal range.Taxis have to park at a military check post, from where it’s a 1.5km ridgeline walk to the Jai Pohlani Mata Temple and several teahouses.
KHAJJIAR
India’s so-called ‘Mini Switzerland’, this grassy bowl-shaped meadow, 22 km east from Dalhousie, is ringed by pines and thronged by Indian holidaymakers. Among the dhabas on one side is the Khajji Nag Temple, with 5 wood carvings and crude effigies of the five Pandavas, installed here in the s16th century.
ACTIVITIES
PONY RIDE around the meadow and it’s small central lake.
ZORBING in giant inflatable balls.
CHAMBA
Ensconced in the valley of the fast flowing Ravi River, the bustling capital of Chamba district is dominated by the former palaces of the local maharajas. Every year Chamba celebrates the annual harvest with the Minjar Festival in the month of July or August, in honour of Raghuvira (an incarnation of Lord Rama).
Although en route to Bharmour and fine trekking country, Chamba is well off the tourist radar. The de fact to Centre is the open grassy sports field known as the focus for festivals, impromptu cricket matches, picnic and promenades. Most places of interest arey in the alleyways of Dogra Bazar which spread up hill from the Chowgan.
LAKSHMI NARAYAN TEMPLE
Opposite the Akhand Chandi Palace are 6 cop stylestone sikharas dating from the 10th to the 19th centuries and covered in carvings. The largest and oldest is dedicated to Laxmi Narayan Vishnu. Just outside the complex is a distinct Nepali style pillar top by a statue of Vishnu faithful servant comma the man bird Garuda. The remaining temples are sacred to Radha Krishna, Shiva, Gauri Shankar,
Trimbakeshwar Mahadev and Lakshmi Damodar. The compound has a small Museum displaying religious artefacts.
CHAMUNDA DEVI TEMPLE
On the hilltop above the Rang Mahal (Old Palace), reached via set of steps near the bus stand, or by taxi along the road to Jhumar, the stone Chamunda Devi Temple features impressive carvings of Chamunda Devi (Durga in her wrathful aspect) and superior views of Chamba and the Ravi Valley.
BAJRESHWARI DEVI TEMPLE
About 500m north along the road to Saho, accessed by a red and white roadside gate, the Bajreshwari (an incarnation of Durga) set into the plinths around the walls.
BHARMOUR
Hovering on the edge of seemingly bottomless valley, the charming mountain village of Bharmour is reached by a mountain road as scenic as it is perilous, winding 65km east of Chamba. The ancient slate-roofed settlement was the capital of the princely state of Chamba untill AD 920, and there are some beautiful temples, though the main reason to come here is for treks to the surrounding valleys and passes. The villages around Bharmour are home to the seminomadic Gaddis, pastoralists who move their flocks up to alpine pastures during the summer, and descend to Kangra, Mandi and Bilaspur in winter.
MANIMAHESH LAKE
One popular shorter trek is to the sacred lake at Manimahesh, a three-day, 35 km return hike that starts from Hadsar, 13 km from Bharmour. In August or September, thousands of pilgrims take a freezing dip in Manimahesh Lake as part of the Manimahesh Yatra in honor of Lord Shiva.
