Strung out along a 12km ridge, Shimla is today an engaging blend of hill town and holiday resort. Indian vacationers stroll the Mall, while the lower bazaars flow with local life and with shops selling hardware, stationery, fabric and spices. Many of the hand-painted signs in the market are so retro they look like they haven’t been changed since the Britishers’ left. With cars banned from the main part of town, walking anywhere is very pleasant-even when huffing and puffing uphill.

Shimla sprawls for miles, but the official centre of town is Scanal Point. From here, the flat open area known as the Ridge stretches east to Christ Church, where trails lead uphill through forest towards the Jakhu Temple. A jagged line of snow-covered peaks is clearly visible from April to June, and in October and November. There are some particularly rewarding forested walks in this eastern part of Shimla.

JAKHU TEMPLE

Shimla’s most famous temple is dedicated to the Lord Hanuman, it’s therefore appropriate that hundreds of rhesus macaques loiter around, harrasing devotees for prasad. Set atop a hill awash in devotional music, the temple houses a small shrine surrounded by funky relief murals of Hanuman performing feats from the Ramayana. Nearby a newly built 33 m – high statue of Hanuman towers over the town.

HIMACHAL STATE MUSEUM

About 2.5 km west of Scandal Point and a stiff walk up to the telecommunications mast, the state museum is home to an impressive collection of miniatures from Kangra and Rajasthan, as well as Chamba-style rumal embroideries, coins and jewellery, temple carvings, and the obligatory display of weapons.

VICEREGAL LODGE

Built as an official residence in 1888 for the British Viceroys, the Viceregal Lodge looks like a cross between Harry Potter’s Hogwarts School and the Tower of London. Every brick used in its construction was hauled by the Institute of Advanced Study, but you can take a guided tour of the buildings.

Opposite the lodge entrance is the glum Himalayan Bird Park, where you can see the iridescent Monal pheasant, Himachal’s state bird, among others.

CHRIST CHURCH

This very English church dominates the top of the ridge and is the second-oldest church in northern India. Built between 1844 and 1857, it contains some moving Raj-era memorials and fine stained glass.

GAIETY THEATRE

This newly refurbished Victorian theater (1877), modeled on the five-year restoration. Mr. Gautam gives excellent guided backstage tours through the bowels of the building, explaining its history as you appreciate the view from the Viceroy’s private box. Local amateur dramatic clubs still give occasional performances on the Burmese teak stage.

HISTORIC BUILDINGS

The Ridge is lined with grand examples of British architecture, including the Town Hall, oddly reminiscent of the mansion in Hammer Horror films, and the mock-Tudor folly housing the post office (1883). At the west end of the Mall is the grand neo-Gothic Gorton Castle, formerly the government secretariat and now the Offices of the Accountant General.

SHIMLA HERITAGE MUSEUM

This gallery in the old United Services Club (1862) has some hostoric black and white photos of old Shimla, and helpful staff, though it’s not a must-see. A new museum is planned here over the coming years.

KALI BARI MANDIR

About 1 km west of the Ridge on the hillside above the Mall, is the Bengali hut-style Kali Bari Mandir, enshrining an image of Kali as Shyamala. There are good views of Shimla from here.

TATTAPANI

About 30 km below Naldehra, on the banks of the Sutlej River, tiny Tattap